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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred names. But, situated high among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

This small Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. This honour has made the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I am completely shocked,” says the proprietor, pointing to his family’s dedication that culminated in their small place earning such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the cuisine, and this establishment certainly excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate beyond its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this culinary achievement.